I mainly shoot B&W too but use a DSLR or roll of Portra once in a while. In those thirty-five years I have very few pictures of her, except for that five year period when our son was an infant and toddler. She was beautiful, but just didn't like having her picture taken. :( I had no problem with her agreeing with me for more kit, but getting her in front of a camera was a different story. I only wish that my late wife had been that willing to be photographed. Not sure if it works the same way for female photographers. In my case, I said: "I have a few frames left in the roll, please do something over there." Focus and push the button. Subscribe to Photoshop CC and take a few classes at local colleges. This might involve buying more gears, set up the perfect lights, paint the living room white as a studio. but think of the Bokeh!" Spouse:*roll eyes*) is to take great pictures of said spouse. Photoshop works goes easier too.Ī trick for male photographers to have their spouse indulge on allowing them to buy expensive gears (Spouse:"don't you have one of those already?" Photographer-who-spent-too-much-money:". It's worth learning how to adjust the manual settings. With Epson Scan the automatic settings clip tones and colors, and never give me the original colors and never the proper contrast range of the film. I can get the original look of the transparency with manual adjustments in the software. I scanned and Photoshop'd two 4x5 transparencies yesterday in this very manner on my V700. My scanning and PS process is the same as jp's. After saving my work, I do a resize and save for web for posting online. Oh yeh, do any crops before you start editing curves in PS. If I were I'd say this was slow and I'd have to give up a little color control to more automated scanning methods. This is pretty quick work: I probably spend a minute adjusting things in the scan, and 2 minutes in PS. This is a good time to make any final adjustment to the white/black points with the sliders here. Overall it was lacking a little contrast, so I added some with the RGB curve. Now, I did blue last and the sky was lacking in cyan a little bit and the ground was lacking in red, so I pulled the red curve down in the sky tones and up in the lower tones. That leaves room for error in the middle, but that's super easy to correct with a minor curve adjustment in whatever color is off or using the color balance sliders which I won't demonstrate. Why does setting the light and dark for each color produce decent color balance? Because white is a even mix of colors and black is an even mix of colors (in pigment, but not in transmittive). If you were printing, you can't print pure white anyways on the inkjet, so keeping it off white is practical. I don't often have pure white though nothing is super bright white in the photo and avoiding clipping the white produces some natural realistic look, particularly as most people's monitors are too bright. I like some black or close to black in many photos. The right side of the histogram is white, left is black. I scan B&W film in as color too, since the pyrocat stain is a color unto itself and throws the blue channel off to one side a bit. (Aldus was swallowed by Adobe in 1994) I adjust each color as the scan is rarely accurate with regard to light and dark for each color. Now the 21st century thing to do would be to do each of these adjustments to a layer, but I started with Aldus Photostyler for editing scans if that dates me. Then in PS I can pay more attention to curves and contrast and finer color balance if I have successfully captured it from the scan.
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